







For the upcoming season, Rabanne's creative director, Julien Dossena, has adopted a more subdued yet celebratory approach, labeling his latest offering as "women's wear, party '26 and spring." This collection serves as a direct response to the fashion industry's often theatrical nature, with Dossena stating his intention to step back from the "Hunger Games"-like spectacle of runways and instead connect with the world's current realities.
Dossena's creative process this season eschewed typical inspirations like mood boards or muses. Instead, he grounded his designs in "pragmatism, reality, and effortlessness," focusing on crafting individual pieces that resonate with everyday life. The collection features essential items like expertly tailored black wool trousers, which are paired with diverse elements such as a gray, black, and white chiné wool coat, a fringed scarf, or a mesh t-shirt with stone-encrusted cape sleeves. Additionally, the collection introduces playful, disco-inspired accessories and silhouettes designed for celebration, incorporating shimmering mesh, silver fringe, and faux fur. His designs also incorporate feedback from friends, leading to unique pieces like a '70s-inspired perfecto jacket, "demi-boyfriend" jeans in unconventional shades, and a relaxed, masculine-leaning blouson or an ivory trench with adjustable puffed sleeves.
Throughout his 13-year tenure, Dossena has continuously reimagined Rabanne's iconic elements, such as chainmail and rhodoid. This season, he pushes these signatures further, exemplified by a chocolate knit dress featuring a deep neckline and a skirt embroidered with dispersed rhodoid slivers, creating a compelling contrast between sharpness and sparsity. Another standout piece is a khaki knit dress layered over a silver fringed skirt, balancing sophistication with a touch of playfulness. Dossena emphasizes that his interest lies in exploring the "quality of tension" in his designs, ensuring Rabanne's nighttime allure seamlessly transitions into daytime wear, as seen in the relaxed khaki jacket paired with an ivory button-down and carpenter pants. His innovative use of Liberty print as an "impressionistic chainmail" further highlights his dedication to modernizing the brand.
Dossena's collection reflects a deep engagement with contemporary womanhood, seeking to create garments that are both stylish and practical for modern life. By observing the women around him and understanding their needs, he delivers a collection that is both current and adaptable, inviting wearers to explore the various facets of their personal style with confidence and ease. This approach fosters a sense of empowerment and authenticity, proving that fashion can indeed be both aspirational and deeply rooted in everyday experience.